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Today’s selection from Azienda Agricola Varaldo is an exlusive and unique wine that showcases Italy’s Piedmont’s best loved grape. Our allocation is extremely limited, so be sure to place your order early.

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Mission Codename: The Fall Fog of the Piedmont

Operative: Agent White & Agent Free Run

Objective: Revisit Az. Agr. Varaldo and taste their delicious Nebbiolo

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Az. Agr. Varaldo

Wine Subject: 2005 Langhe DOC Nebbiolo

Winemaker: Michele Varaldo

Backgrounder:

Langhe DOC in Italy’s Piedmont overlaps the same regions as Barolo, Barbaresco and Barbera d’Alba. The red wines from Langhe DOC can blend specifically approved (including Dolcetto, Barbera, Freisa, along with some non-domestic grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot) with the base varietal Nebbiolo. Given the more flexible rules, the wines from Langhe are the Piedmont’s version of the popular Super Tuscan. This DOC was established in 1994, the DOC occupies mush of the province of Cuneo.

Today’s selection is a 100% Nebbiolo, the region’s most prolific and admired grape, is grown on the family’s 17 acre low-yield vineyard, carefully harvested by hand and is aged for 24 months in French oak.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep garnet in color with a clear deep core that flashes ruby highlights when held to the light. The color holds its density just to the edge where it becomes a lighter shade of garnet then ruby/pink. Fast legs of medium thickness cascade down the side of the glass when swirled.

Smell – Bold and redolent red Italian cherry and other red and black fruit, including ripe plum and Nebbiolo’s distinctive tar component define this wine’s youthful nose. Behind those aromas are complex notes of licorice, chocolate, toasted oak and floral violet.

Feel – This dry and full-bodied wine has finely etched tannins, just enough spiciness and a bold and tangy acidity that carries the complex flavors through to the finish.

Taste – This wines abundant flavors crash over the palate revealing ripe red and black fruit, tar and earth on the first pass. As you explore this wine’s still youthful flavors you’ll discover hints of exotic spice, toasted oak and vanilla, dark chocolate and licorice.

Finish – Long and lingering with lasting fruit flavors, zesty Italian tar, dark chocolate and toasted oak that are well supported by this wines bold structure.

Conclusion – If you are a fan of Italy’s great wines of the Piedmont then the 2006 Varaldo Langhe DOC is sure to please. Bold and rich aromas and flavors, distinctly Italian in character, and a solid backbone structure. While this wine is just starting to become fully integrated, we recommend decanting this wine for full enjoyment now. This wine will also cellar well and is sure to evolve and improve for at least a decade to come.

Mission Report:

The last time Agent Free Run and I had a wine from Azienda Agricola Varaldo it was as part of a joke played upon us by our fellow agents. We were so taken by the uniqueness of the wine, however, we wanted to further explore the farm and their exceptional juice. Which brings us to today’s selection of their 2006 Langhe DOC Nebbiolo.

While less common here is the U.S., Nebbiolo is among the most prolific and greatest of indigenous grapes in Italy and accounts for some of their most exceptional wines. Specifically, Nebbiolo finds is most expressive nature in the wines of Barolo and Barbaresco. Nebbiolo is named for the fog (Nebbia – see photo at left) that is common in the region at harvest time.

Today’s selection is unique in that its formal designation is that of Langhe DOC and the Varaldo farm lies within the boundaries of Barbaresco. The Langhe DOC overlaps a larger region and was established to give the local wine producers added flexibility in making blended wines similar to the much loved Super Tuscans.

This is why this wine is so unique, it is a purely varietal, 100% Nebbiolo from the family’s exceptional single low-yield/high density vineyard and yet is retains its looser Langhe designation. Thus, the challenge (and arguably many flaws) in Italy’s confusing Goria’s Law That being said, if you enjoy Barolo or Barbaresco made in the more modern riper form, then this wine is for you.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the the Varaldo farm can be seen in this satellite photo.