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Mission Codename: Vin de Garde, if you can wait…

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Visit Provence and return with an exceptional wine representative of the region.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Chateau Jean-Pierre Gaussen

Wine Subject: 2002 Bandol Rouge

Winemaker: Jean-Pierre Gaussen

Backgrounder:

Head down to the south of France and visit Provence in the Var Department and you’re not only treated to amazing scenery, sites and food, but perhaps some of the best, if not most unrepresented, wines in all of France.

The Bandol AOC is centered in the small fishing village of Bandol is perhaps the most recognized wine of the region and comes in three varieties: white, rose and red. Today’s selection is a rouge. The region’s warm climate, soil and aspect make it ideal for the late ripening Mourvedre which by AOC regulation must make up at least 50% of the blend with Grenache, Syrah and Carignan making up the rest. This superb example is 70% Mourvedre and 30% Grenache. These wines cellar well, hence vin de garde and today’s selection is drinking very well now but has yet to reach its peak.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark purple with a clear but dark core. Along the edges the color lightens from garnet to orange to pink with clusters of long thin legs that inch down the side of the glass when swirled.

Smell – Medium bold aromatics lead off with spicy black fruit, ripe wild blackberries, plum and a touch of cinnamon with hints of earthy Provencal herbs, floral violets and a touch of leather.

Feel – This wine is rich, dry, full-bodied and warm on the palate with medium, but fine tannins and a hint of spiciness.

Taste – New world flavors of blackberry and cassis layered of old world flavors of spice including cinnamon, vanilla and hints of oak and leather.

Finish – This wine finishes long and smooth with lingering flavors and feel of its fruit, earthy qualities and spice.

Conclusion – This Bandol Rouge shows tremendous balance between the new and old world styles. Its dominant grape of Mourvedre is very well represented. If you haven’t yet explored the wines from Provence, today’s selection is an excellent example from a boutique producer that is hands on from harvest to bottling.

Mission Report:

The plan was to relax for a few days and enjoy the sites, beaches and great food of Provence and the sites French Riviera. I had reserved a suite at the Monte Carlo and had planned on just playing for the weekend. Agent Blush was to arrive in a few days. After a day at the beach, I cleaned up for dinner and headed down to the casino for a few hands of baccarat chemin de fer.

I sat at the tableau, made my initial stakes and was dealt my cards. Luck was one my side, or so I though, just as I was turning my cards, just as I was about to say “Neuf”, Agent Terroir came running up and said we needed to go.

“Peut-il attendre?”, I said…, and almost immediately, he responded “Non”.

So me in my Tuxedo and Agent Terroir in jeans and a t-shirt headed out. The valet almost laughed as we climbed into his junk (and that’s a nice way of putting it) Citroen and headed out. Moving west-bound we passed so many of the famous villages and once we arrived in town of Bandol we headed up the coastal hills to a small vineyard overlooking the Mediterranean Sea.

Puling over to the side of the road, Terroir jumped a wooden fence and started into a vineyard. We were quickly greeted by a man, that epitomized the term “Dirt Farmer”. Missing teeth, stained cuticles, overalls – the whole deal.

Jean-Pierre Gaussen started ranting about “What’s organic? What’s biodynamic?… I don’t know what rules are, I just make wine the way we’ve always done it.”

This man was passionate about not using pesticides and harvesting by hand. We also oversees each step in the vilification process. This guy was truly old School, and despite the mud on my shoes and dust on my tuxedo, that’s just the way I like it.

That day, I had the chance to taste Jean-Pierre’s wines, all of which are vin de garde and through a bit of luck, we are able to bring you a small allocation of his 2002 Bandol Rouge today.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the region surrounding Bandol can be seen in this satellite photo.