Mission Codename Lovey dovey
Double Cos sellout day…
Now that we temporarily filled some cellars up, feet back on the ground for some sub-$30 steal of a Bordeaux. They are out there you know!
And you have to go to the periphery just outside the most famous regions to find them, as in per Decanter “Castillon is advancing into the modern era and the arrival of new producers, and a younger generation can only speed this up.”
Could Paloma be the best Right Bank value you’ve never heard of? We thought so when we discovered this Wine Spies Exclusive debut only in its 2nd vintage during a visit to or favorite cult garagiste La Fleur Morange last year and scooped up all they let us have of this exciting new sister wine.
Paloma is a project started for the next generation of La Fleur Morange’s Julien family, by their daughter Mathilde from the outskirts of Saint-Émilion, resurrecting an ancient property just across the appellation border on a crop of pure limestone in the up-and-coming Castillon hills.
Jancis Robinson has the backstory: “In the 1990s Jean-François Julien was a carpenter who knew nothing about wine but used to mend furniture for the aristocratic owner of Canon La Gaffelière. Today his own small wine property enjoys exactly the same status as the count’s did then. La Fleur Morange was promoted to Grand Cru Classé in 2012. I have now had a chance to taste virtually all extant vintages of this fascinating property and it seems as though carpenter Jean-François Julien and his wife are going from strength to strength.”
Paloma is no exception. Pure Merlot grown on pure limestone always has this Pomerol-esque vibes, and this drinks like one. Plush plums give way to dusty cocoa covered dried cherries and baking spices of all kinds. The superb vintage is evident in the ultrafine powdery tannins that elongate the seamless finish for a good minute plus. Hits WAY above its league, ideal for juicy cuts of steak or wild mushroom pasta.
Check out these photos here on their Facebook page with just a handful of followers who have woken up to this genuine gem, and the pastoral lifestyle at the periphery of the all too familiar ritzy-glitzy Bordeaux.
This one is a caser, don’t let it get away!
92 Points – Yves Beck
“Freshness of the terroir is an obvious asset for Paloma. The bouquet reveals nuances of eucalyptus and fresh scents of blackcurrant. On the palate it confirms with tension, and precise, juicy tannins. A promising wine highlighting the suitability of its terroir in sunny vintages.”
91 Points – Jeff Leve
“Flowers, chocolate, plums, and orange rind notes pop in the perfume. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, soft, polished, fruity, and fresh, with a silky-edged, plum, and cocoa-oriented finish. Drink from 2023-2033.”
90+ Points – Jeb Dunnuck
“A property that’s been renovated by the family behind La Fleur Morange, the 2020 Côtes de Castillon is 100% Merlot from pure limestone soils that was raised all in new barrels. It’s a beautiful Castillon with darker cherries, plums, redcurrants, and graphite-like aromatics as well as medium to full-bodied richness on the palate. Its oak is nicely integrated, it has ripe tannins, and it’s going to evolve for a solid 10-12 years if well stored. Drink 2023-2035.”
What the Winery Says
2020 Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux
- Proprietor/winemakers
- Jean-François & Mathilde Julien
- Varietal
- 100% Merlot
- Vintage
- 2020
- Alcohol
- 14.0%
- Appellation
- Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux
- Aging
- 18 months
- Barrels
- 50% new French oak