Tenuta di Valgiano is the gateway to a different Tuscany. The manicured estates of Montalcino seem a world away; here in the hills above the city of Lucca, dense forests hide weather-worn villas and older-vine vineyards, with climbing herbs winding round “palistorti,” crooked stakes that mark each vineyard row. The wines of Valgiano are true “terroir” wines—wines that once you taste them, inspire a feeling that you are being spoken to in a new language, one that is undeniably exciting. The estate’s 40 acres of vineyards are certified organic and biodynamic, protected by nearly 200 acres of forestland. Owners/winemakers Moreno Petrini and Laura di Collobiano would have it no other way—for them, the honest soul of Valgiano must be present in each bottle.

Estate vineyards, some 20 acres, face southeast on a series of terraces, 750 feet above sea level, north of Lucca in the Apennine foothills. Soils combine chalky, clay-rich “alberese” marl and alluvial sandstone. Hand-harvested. Destemmed; fermented on indigenous yeasts in small, open-top wooden fermenters; delicate punch downs performed by foot. Aged in French oak barrels (5% new) for 12 months. Blend aged in cement vats for another six months before bottling. Unfined and unfiltered, with minimal added sulfites.

Aromas of red and black plums, cassis, licorice, southern herbs, lavender. Medium-bodied, refined tannins; impressive depth. Grilled steak or roasted fowl; pork sausages with herbs; well-aged Italian sheep’s cheese