Mission Codename Elevated and elated
Wanna do more Xanadu? All gone, forgive us… especially for that cheesy rhyme!
Speaking of Burgundian whites… we want to take this follow-up gem of an opportunity to THANK INAO (Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité or previously known as Institut National des Appellations d’Origine) for elevating Pouilly-Fuissé to a Cru designate appellation status.
Vinous sums up the dawn of this momentous new era “After years of wading through French bureaucracy and negotiations with the coteries of producers and co-operatives, each with something to lose or gain, 2020 marks the inaugural vintage when the appellation of Pouilly-Fuissé can boast 22 climats designated Premier Cru, equivalent to 194-hectares or 24% of vineyard area. Speaking to growers, of course they are pleased, jubilant even, that the most prized appellation in Mâconnais is finally recognized.”
And they zoom in on the Domaine: “Roger and Christine Saumaize-Michelin are one of a number of top-quality producers in the village of Vergisson. The Saumaize-Michelins have farmed biodynamically since 2005. Limited yields and manual harvesting are the fundamentals of their approach in the vineyards, followed by fermentation in barrel and maturation on the lees. The various parcels have been vinified separately since 1985. The wines are concentrated and structured, exemplifying the artisanal excellence that seems to proliferate in Vergisson.”
And we zoom in on the wine. It’s a hauntingly beautiful, rich, while backed with serious acidity example, that can easily give the Crus of the Côte de Beaune a run for the money. Like you’re paying half of what this profile would cost in Puligny or Meursault. This was the whole idea behind the Renaissance of the Mâconnais with Pouilly-Fuissé in the forefront. Get in on the hottest new genre in white Burgundy while we were able to knock it down to under $50, won’t see these wines affordable like that for long. As the stingy Burghound barrel review raves, this indeed has hit the Sweet Spot, Outstanding!
Oh, just about 10 cases were all we could snatch, will go fast…
95 Points – Antonio Galloni’s Vinous
“Roger and Christine Saumaize-Michelin have overseen a raft of top-notch Pouilly-Fuissé from this winery perched on the foothills of the Roc de Vergisson. We were joined by their daughter Lisa for the tasting. ‘We started the picking on 5 September compared to 2021, which started on 21 September. I prefer the 2020 over 2019. It has more directness. The vintage was easy to work, and the wines just give so much pleasure… they are just more drinkable.’ These tend to be fresh, nimble expressions of their vineyards, using minimal new oak, often quite saline on their finish. The 2020 Pouilly-Fuissé La Maréchaude 1er Cru comes from two parcels, around half a hectare together, one particularly steep, which makes it hard to farm and so everything has to be done manually, backpacks to spray and so on. A little deeper in color than other cuvées, this has a more concentrated, almost petrolly bouquet that manages to maintain impressive delineation and focus. The palate is beautifully balanced, very complex, a killer spine of acidity with outstanding tension on the finish. Very composed, I had to have a sneaky sip of this nectar. Drink 2023-2040.”
90-93 Points – Burghound
“Sweet Spot, Outstanding! Roger Saumaize told me that the domaine now farms 11 ha of vines as they added vines in both Pouilly-Fuissé and St. Véran. With respect to the 2020 growing season, he briefly noted that ‘the wines are relatively classic in style with good energy, texture and transparency with lovely balance that should allow them to be enjoyed young but age reasonably well too. While it’s still early, they appear to be very promising.’ A whiff of mineral reduction character is present on the ripe aromas of dried apricot, white peach, petrol and discreet floral influences. The sleek, intense and dense middle weight plus flavors exude a bracing salinity on the impressively long finish… Drink 2026+.”
What the Winery Says
2020 Pouilly-Fuissé La Maréchaude 1er Cru
- Winemaker
- Roger Saumaize
- Varietal
- 100% Chardonnay
- Vintage
- 2020
- Alcohol
- 14.0%
- Appellations
- Pouilly-Fuissé, Mâconnais, Burgundy, France
- Vineyard
- La Maréchaude 1er Cru
- Soils
- Limestone and Clay
- Aging
- 10-14 months
- Barrels
- 100% French, mostly new