Mission Codename Kiwiwinner
“The Keltern Chardonnay is always effortless, never seeming to have to try too hard to satisfy… in a savory, seamless style.” - Vinous
This is the TRUTH. When this popped into our tasting lineup, we pegged it for a top Grand Cru white Burgundy. The concentration. The INTENSITY. Pure laser focused, Decanter 97 POINTS (and 95 Vinous), take no prisoners Chardonnay. It earned the $75 price tag, no doubt. But our price? Pure, utter madness.
It easily competes with and surpasses the best from California to Burgundy. One’s mind does not normally venture into New Zealand when looking for something like this - but as Vinous notes about Villa Maria “its single-vineyard efforts like Keltern Chardonnay are often benchmarks.”
Benchmark indeed.
Still having doubts? A commemorative tasting held BLIND last year among foremost experts picked this as a winner in the company of legends including Coche-Dury, Leflaive, and Raveneau. Master of Wine Matt Deller concluded “New Zealand has evolved into a great Chardonnay producing country and that Villa Maria’s single-vineyard Chardonnays… are truly world-class.” The full lineup and a brilliant video featuring the Villa Maria winemaker can be found here.
That telltale nose of exotic citrus, stone fruits, and wet rocks all thrown in a Ninja blender is there on the first whiff. Contrary to the subtle white gold color with a glimmering appeal, the palate is shimmeringly, no - make that shockingly - supercharged with magnificent intensity, depth, and richness, all delivered in a balanced, creamy robe that strokes the palate and the spirit. Lemon curd and poached pears, toasty brioche, flint, and saline, it’s all going on. 40% new French oak and partial MLF gives it a round, weighty feel without crushing your taste buds in a buttery mess. The finish is so prolonged that it unfolds with new layers, obviously hinting that this will continue to bloom over time. Poached lobster tails would be a great decadent accompaniment to savor it, if not with a truffled mac n cheese.
Near impossible to find too. Very little was made. Most bottles don’t even leave the island. And when they do hit a few restaurants and fine wine shops stateside, the price is a hefty $75, which still is far better a deal than any other 95-100 rated white Burgundy or California Chardonnay these days.
But how about when we slash that price almost by HALF and for the first time in history slip this rarity to under $40?! It is –OH–SO–WORTH– every penny.
Collectors, or lovers of massive Chardonnays that sweep you off your feet, do not miss this treat.
97 Points – Decanter
“Fantastic bouquet with piercing aromas of ripe stone fruits and gunflint, fresh white-fleshed orchard fruits, fine new barrel scents and soft baking spice moments. Complex, detailed and seductive. Even better on the palate with a pure fruit core showcasing flavors of grapefruit and stone fruits, citrus pith, and wet pebble minerality. Youthful, complex, and vibrant. Drinking window 2022-2028.”
95 Points – Antonio Galloni’s Vinous
“The 2020 Chardonnay Keltern is taking no prisoners in 2020. It is an uncompromising, firm expression. Concentrated and textural, it remains clean, taut, and athletic, pulled through from the starting gun to the finish line by a lime-like citrusy acidity alongside flinty notes and classy new-wood-derived hazelnuts (barrel fermentation). It’s clearly had a lot of TLC in both the vineyard and the winery, but it’s a little uptight and urgent at the moment; patience will be rewarded. Drink 2023-2033.”
Tasting Profile
Exotic citrus, stone fruits, wet rocks, hazelnut cream
Look | Subtle white gold color with a glimmering appeal |
---|---|
Smell | Exotic citrus, stone fruits, and wet rocks are all thrown into a blender |
Taste | Magnificent intensity, depth, and richness, in a balanced, creamy robe |
Finish | Strokes the palate and the spirit, with layers that will continue to bloom |
Pairing | Poached lobster tails, or decadent with a truffled mac n cheese too |
What the Winery Says
2020 Keltern Vineyard Hawke's Bay Chardonnay
- Winemaker
- Nick Picone
- Varietal
- 100% Chardonnay
- Vintage
- 2020
- Alcohol
- 14%
- Appellation
- Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
- Vineyard
- Keltern Vineyard
- Yields
- 7-7.5 tons/Ha
- Clones
- 59% Cl15, 38% Cl548, 3% Cl95
- Malolactic fermentation
- 60%
- Total acidity
- 6.87 g/L
- pH
- 3.26
- Residual sugar
- 1.08 g/L
- Bottling date
- March 24th, 2021
- Aging
- 11 months
- Barrels
- 40% new French oak by Francois Freres, Gillet & Fouquet